No poetry could do my local market – laiki – justice, or at least the kind of poetry that I might come up with. That said, I am sure that many others who are gifted wordsmiths could create a beautiful ode. In fact, Michael Llwellyn-Smith, in his 2004 travel book Athens, in Signal Book’s ‘Imagined Cities’ series, has eloquently described (albeit in prose) our Friday laiki:
It is one of the most vivid displays of everyday life in the city, with its regularity, the personal encounters with neighbours, the cheerful noise of the vendors crying their wares, the quiet purpose of the shoppers stocking their trolleys and baskets.
What I can offer is a photo essay from images I’ve taken in the market over the past year. The great majority of the photographs I have taken record the seasonal produce, but every once in a while, people catch my attention. They record, I hope, some of human dynamics of our laiki. After all, the word laiki comes from laos, the people.
One of my favourites – taken with my iPhone over my shoulder as I passed by – is this fantastic image of two men playing tavli (backgammon) back in August 2016 when many of the vendors were away on holiday. It appeared in one of my earlier IMK posts.
Another favourite is the Cretan cheese seller located right next to the onion supplier. Lots of other goodies from Crete are on display at his stall, like snails, dried mountain sage and good green olive oil.
The guy with the Δίσκος Καφενείου (kafeneion tray), a traditional design ideal for short distance takeout, often holds cold drinks in the summer rather than coffee. He moves though the laiki collecting and delivering orders also carrying a πλαστική σακούλα (plastic bag) over his shoulder with tins of coke, sprite and lemonada.
Even though the market street is closed to vehicles on market day, the motor bikes and vespas seem immune. They muscle their way though the pedestrian traffic. Negotiating the way past vegetable, fish, flower, olive, fruit and nut stalls can sometimes be tricky. However, shoppers take it in their stride.
The man from Tripoli hawks his Peloponnesian wares – apples in cooler months, beans in warmer ones. He is extremely expressive when exclaiming the quality of his wares. It is almost as if he wants to pull you in for a closer look.
Even the market dogs can be expressive – and a bit telling. This one with his face averted seems to be saying: “Please, not the spring onions!”.
Or the big bear-like dog looking a bit bored while his human dithers over a selection of frozen fish. He wisely knows that the fresh fish is available a few stalls away.
And, just before you leave the market, the mobile souvlaki stall is located at the end of the street. It is manned summer and winter. They certainly do a brisk business whether in shorts and tee shirts or in layers of sweaters and puffy vests. They have a rudimentary form of drive through as it is common to see an exchange of sticks of grilled pork and payment through car windows as drivers cruise by.
The laiki is definitely a place to observe everyday life in modern Athens. There is something new to see each Friday morning.
Debi,
A great selection of photos from the laiki. As I tour your photos, I can hear the sellers shouting in Greek to come buy their wares. I wish I could pluck some fresh veggies, fruit, and cheese off the computer screen. Even in California, the produce doesn’t come close to the quality and flavor of the fruit and veggies grown in Greece (especially apricots.)
Donna
LikeLike
Hi Donna, I agree with you regarding the taste of Greek produce. Perhaps it is because everything here is still quite seasonal (so sold and eaten when there are fresh) and no one seems to care if there are not-so-perfect looking fruit and veg. Apricot season right now! Made a really intense jam. Let’s hope you are here in Greece in time to sample them.
Debi
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a fabulous post! Terrific photos!
LikeLike
Thanks Mimi. I do love a good market.
LikeLike
Love this post because I have an extraordinary love of markets. You’ve brought me to a new one and a new term, but I see similarities to markets around the world. Sometimes I take photos of veggies — all bright and piled up neatly. But most of the time, I try to capture the people of the markets — buyers and sellers — since they make the decisions of how to display or how to bargain. Give me a market any day, and I’ll show you people — and food — at its finest! Thanks for posting.
LikeLike
Markets are fabulous places to visit and they are always on my to-do list when visiting other places. I am so lucky that this one is just 2 blocks away every Friday.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I love finding local markets on my travels!
LikeLike
So do I!
LikeLiked by 1 person
😀
LikeLike
Ah, my favorite neighborhood laiki which I love to visit when in Athens. The variety of faces and food is always
a big draw. Great photos!
LikeLike
It is a fabulous laiki. I am so lucky to live close by. I’ve now become one of the regulars!
LikeLike
I absolutely adored this post, Debi – I’m an addict of markets anywhere, and your photos are stunning. I’m totally stealing it and re-blogging😋😋😋
LikeLiked by 1 person
Glad you liked it. Next time you are in the neighbourhood on a Friday morning, you should visit.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’ll make a note!
LikeLike
Reblogged this on Letters from Athens and commented:
Who doesn’t love a market? Debi has taken some fabulous photos of her local Greek “laiki”, which I am re-blogging for your enjoyment.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wonderful photos (and commentary). I too love the laiki – we have two near us in Pangrati on Tuesday and Friday, both with their individual vibe. I used to love the one in Kalidromio when we lived in Exharhia. Are you near Kolonaki?
LikeLike
Yes, the photos are of the Kolonaki market on Xenokratous. Where are the Pangrati markets held? If they are within walking distance, I would love to explore.
LikeLiked by 1 person
They’re on the far side of Pangrati from you.
The Tuesday market runs from Filolau along Timotheou for two blocks for food and up and down the pedestrian street of Laskou for clothes and other stuff.
The Friday market is in two places. From December to May it’s in Archimedous from Platia Plastira behind the Stadium – this is our prettiest market, but you have to wait till December now. From June to November it’s in Pirrou both sides of Immitou. It’s not as pretty as Archimedous but it’s still got plenty of bustle.
I must come over to Kolonaki one Friday. My favourite is still the Kalidromeo Saturday market.
Cheers. Peter
LikeLiked by 1 person
OMG! I love it all!!!!
LikeLike
Thanks Elaine!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Love markets/laiki. Looking forward to exploring a few in September! Enjoyed reading your post.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Markets seem to be universally liked. Hope you find some good ones in September!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes, I am sure we will.
LikeLike
There’s no better place to buy fresh food than a good market. The sights, smells. noise and the characters. A market is a city’s heart. Thanks for sharing. Great photos.
LikeLike
I agree. I buy all our fresh produce and sometimes fish in this market. I do enjoy my Friday forays.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Great photographs Debi, especially love the cretan cheese seller. So enjoy taking pictures at markets too 🙂
LikeLike
The Cretan cheese seller is one of my favourites as well. I was extremely lucky to get the shot! The market never fails to deliver sights, sounds and smells – a sensory delight.
LikeLike
[…] have noticed the dearth of food related posts this past month – concentrating instead on markets, bridges and […]
LikeLike